SHO NUT Performance Reinforced Motor Mounts


SHO NUT Performance Reinforced Motor Mounts are NEW Ford mounts that we personally reinforce.  We call these mounts 'zero-clearance' because we make sure each mount has no space between the limiting plates we weld in and the rubber body of the mount.  This means that to get any flexing of the mount, you actually need to compress the rubber in the mount against the limiting plate.  Other reinforced engine mounts designs still allow some mount movement before the limiting pin or plate hits the rubber body in the mount, since they are built with a gap between the limiting part of the mount and the rubber body in the mount, so they will allow more movement than our mounts.

If you put other reinforced mounts in a vice and try to flex them, you cannot tell the difference between them and a stock mount, since even though you are flexing the mount, the limiting pins or plates are not yet touching the rubber in the mount.  When you put one of our mounts in a vice and try to flex them, you move the table the vise is attached to.

The front mount gets one additional limiting plate.
The rear mount gets two additional limiting plates (since this mount works more in compression than the front mount), requiring more work (and cost) to reinforce.

There are two levels of the mounts – regular, and EXTREME.  Both are made in the same fashion, except that the limiting plates are pressed further into the mounts with the EXTREME version.  The regular units have the limiting plate pressed into the mount body about 1/8” or so, while the EXTREME units are pressed into the mount body about ” with a hydraulic press and a special jig.

The regular ones are intended for normal performance driving.  The EXTREME units are intended for powerful cars that are drag raced or driven really hard and/or supercharged/NOS cars.

The regular ones will allow some motor movement, while the EXTREME units hardly allow any movement at all.

These mounts are as close as you can get to solid motor mounts without actually welding the mount solid.  However, there is no noticeable increase in noise, vibration or harshness (NVH) for the standard units (The EXTREME units may increase NVH).  The mount is the proper place to limit engine movement, since the mount and it's attaching brackets are designed for such strong forces.

These mounts are guaranteed for life, and WILL be the last mount you buy. 

NOTE that the guarantee is for separation of the rubber in the mount from the inner frame.  It does NOT cover mounts where the mounting holes/captive nuts or studs have been damaged or ripped off (this has happened), since this is an installation error of not tightening the bolts properly, or simply breaking the bolts attaching the mounts to the engine.   If you want to keep the bolts from coming loose, red Loctite is recommended, along with new bolts.  It is also worthwhile to double-nut the bolts, and a nut that works well is the V6 Exhaust Stud Nuts (4) N800-152-S2 from the Clutch page.  This nut is a tall, high strength M10x1.5 locking nut with a flange.  The torque spec is 55 for the two through bolts, and 75 for the nut on the stud that goes through the subframe.

NOTE also that early versions of the mounts had the area around the limiting plate filled with black silicone.  This silicone will crack, and such a crack in the silicone is not considered mount breakage – it is normal.  The current versions of the mounts do not have silicone between the limiting plate and the body of the mount. 

Please also note that the mounts will wear with time, and become a little looser than when brand new.  As long as the rubber has not separated between the inner frame of the mount and the rubber in the mount, the mount has not failed – this is simply normal wear. 

If you feel that you have excessive movement, make sure that the nut-to-subframe is tight, the bolts are tight, and the brackets that the mounts are attached to are not cracked.  Leaving the bolts loose will damage the mounting holes/captive nuts in the mount, so if you have movement, check it right away before the mounting holes/captive nuts in the mount are damaged – damage which is NOT covered under warranty.

A good way to verify what is actually loose is to get under the car and push and pull on the end of the Y-pipe, watching the motor mount area for movement – here you will see if you have a broken mount-to-engine bracket, loose bolts, or a loose mount.

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